A Wine Lover's Tale: Immersed in Orestiadi
Let me transport you to the foothills of Mount Etna on a trip with the perfect mix of tradition, history and great winemaking.
Tenute Orestiadi’s identity is not just about producing wines which celebrate the unique volcanic landscape of their vineyards. An important part of their identity is intertwining their wines with the cultural and artistic aspects linked to the history of Gibellina, the city where their story began, and the Mediterranean. This is shown through many mediums, including their striking labels and their awe-inspiring Barriques Museum, where artists have been invited to transform barrels into works of art.
The Trip
Day One
On our first day we were up bright and early for our 6am flight to Palermo, excited to spend the day with Sandro from Tenute Orestiadi.
Our focus was to be a full immersion in the history of the area, so that we could learn about the background and ethos of the estate.
The day began with a visit to Fondazione Orestiadi, a museum of Art and History where new meets the old in a mix of modern art and artifacts. All of them hailed from the local region, which inspired the story of Orestiadi’s labels. They use an archaic language, which was used on the trading market between the different countries as common language. This was an incredible sight and you definitely feel the passion and the culture that comes from the area, which was previously inhabited by the Normans, Northern Africans and the Greeks, as well as the native population of the area.
Being in Italy, lunch is obviously an especially important feature of any day and being so close to the seaside resulted in scrumptious bowlfuls of freshly made pasta dishes and fresh fish, which was caught just the night before.
Rolling out of the restaurant with bellies full, we finished off the afternoon with another great visit to Templi del Sulinunte to show us more of history of the area. Most of the temples were destroyed by a big earthquake that hit Gibellina in the 60s, but together with several universities and charities, the city managed to partially rebuild it.
By having a greater understand of the history of Gibellina and Tenute Orestiadi, it brought the wines to life and reinforced our connection with the place. I definitely believe they tasted all the more fantastic as a result.
Our first day was rounded off with a magical dinner at one of the most beautiful spots on the coast, in Sulinunte, with incredibly fresh fish, so fresh that they could tell us the name of the fisherman that caught it.
Day Two
Another early start for the second day, with a drive to the Fish Auction in the local village.
Even as an Italian, I have never experienced anything quite like it – it is quite the assault on the senses. All the locals and businesses come together every morning to participate in an auction of the fish caught by the locals the night before. If you are lucky and time your bid well, you are rewarded with the freshest lobster you might ever have in your life. It was the most fun thing to see ever!
After the auction, it was now time to taste Orestiadi’s full range, so we headed off to their headquarters in Gibellina. It was the complete tasting experience, where we tried whites and reds, including all the indigenous varietals that the area has to offer: Zibibbo, Perricone, Grillo, Fiano and more. The tasting also included international varietals: Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It was fascinating to taste the breadth of styles that could be produced from the same land. We were also treated to a tasting of Orestiadi’s top wine, Ludovico Rosso, which is a blend of Cabernet and Nero d’Avola. This is a wine made with the philosophy of embracing both local and international cultures, a belief shared by Ludovico Corrau, the old Mayor of Gibellina, who brought the town back to life after the big quake.
Ludovico was very passionate about his town, but also loved experiencing the mix of cultures that Sicily had to offer, bringing together Modern and History in one place to create the new Gibellina.
No rest for the wicked, so we were then whisked off to Cretto di Burri, in Old Gibellina Village, to visit the biggest modern art sculpture in Europe, which marks the epicentre of the earthquake that impacted the whole of the valley.
Walking through the sculpture was a humbling, unique experience. I was struck by how powerless we are against mother nature and the feeling of sadness when you saw rubble covered in cement to show where the old buildings were prior to this disaster. Many of the streets were preserved as they were following the quake to show the impact.
Our last night was spent with a memorable dinner in the nearby city of Mazzara del Vallo, again on the coast, enjoying the incredibly beautiful landscape of the island.
Credit: Francesca Commissari/Shuttershock
Day Three
It was now time to return to the UK, but not before a bus journey through the Belìce Valley admiring its stunning terroir. As far as the eye could see were amazing views, olive groves and vineyards.
Looking back, this was one of the most impressive wine trips I have ever been on. It was a privilege to experience it together with our customers, The Warren, Lago di Como, Fish at 55 and Brettington’s Steak & Lobster House and we all came away from Orestiadi inspired and excited by their wines and their project. You couldn’t ask for more from a visit to a producer!